drill hole

White gold is routinely alloyed down with nickel. Nickel causes allergic reactions in a lot of people.
It’s probably showing up now, because your ring was plated in rhodium (the whitest member of the platinum family) when you bought it. This is normal, as white gold always has a little warmth to it, so it is almost always plated in rhodium.

The rhodium has worn off. The white gold, alloyed with nickel is in direct contact with your skin. You are reacting to the nickel. One easy solution is to bring the ring in to the jeweler where you purchased it and have it replated with rhodium. Or, you could trade the ring in for a white gold ring that does NOT contain nickel, a palladium ring or a platinum ring.
The metal rhodium is essentially inert to the skin, hypoallergenic, no reaction. What the reaction could be is a basic metals reaction and that SHOULD NOT be happening if the rings have a real rhodium plate.

My suggestion? Contact QVC and tell them of the problem. They should either give your money back or replace the item with one with a real rhodium plate!
Green is a reaction generally to base metals, such as copper, etc., which are either preplate(done beneath the rhodium on metals like silver) or part of the the meatal alloy the ring is made of.

Either the plate is not rhodium or is a poor job at plating. QVC owes you an answer on this one and your may use my answer when you contact them if you want.
Without seeing the ring and actually examining it, I can say little about the ring itself.

“Temporary Fix. Recommended for you to Try:
Rhodium is a hard and durable white metal. Most white gold is given a quick plated layer of rhodium when brand new or when repaired.

This thin layer of rhodium gives the metal a whiter look. Rhodium is also a metal that does not react with the skin. A local jeweler should easily be able to refinish, buff up nicely and rhodium plate your ring. The look is good. The advantage to you is the rhodium provided a safety layer between the nickel in the ring and your sensitive skin! The rhodium works very well when the plating is done correctly. You can expect the rhodium to wear off in time but you should get 6mos to a year of wear before the ring should be plated with rhodium again. We often do this service for ladies who love white gold earrings but have problems. With yellow gold problems, we plate the parts touching the skin and it works until the rhodium eventually wears away.”

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Pearls are prized depending on several factors, a combination of which can greatly affect their price:

Color – is determined based on two things: the body color and the overtone. The body color is the main color of the pearl, which can range from the more common white, cream and silver to green, gold, blue and black. The body color depends on the kind of oyster the pearl was produced with as well as on the water conditions prevailing at the time of its production.

The overtone is the translucent color/s that you can see on top of the body color, although there are pearls with no overtones. Imagine the pearl as a colored ball and imagine an overtone as a colored plastic wrap over it. The overtone can add to the luster and depth of the pearl and can change its main color a little. For example, a pearl may have a cream color with pink overtones.

Size – generally speaking, the larger the pearl, the more valuable it is. Size is measured in millimeters and determined by the pearl’s diameter.

Shape – pearls come in a wide array of shapes: the spherical (round and near-round), symmetrical (oval, button and drop or pear-shaped) and baroque (irregular and non-symmetrical).

Luster – pearls are reflective gemstones. The higher its luster quality, the more it can reflect light and surrounding images and the more brilliant it is. Luster is dependent upon the quality and amount of nacre that the pearl contains.

Surface quality – pearls of high value are those with little imperfections like spots, bumps or discolorations. The more nearly perfect it is, the more valuable.

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Other than that, a look at the drilled holes in the beads will help. Since the pearl is formed naturally without a hole, the hole must be drilled. The surface of the pearl at the drill hole will not ‘sink in’ or ‘rise up’ as is seen in many fakes that are formed and coated with the holes already made to the core. In the real pearl, the nacre will be smooth with the drill hole and might even be chipped a bit. Some folks recommend having a dentist do an x-ray to see what is inside.

Still, unless a person is very, very familiar with reading the images the results are very iffy. A core will look like a core whether in a fake or a cultured pearl. A core will not be present to any large extent in a pearl formed freely in the ocean but those pearls just are not around or to be had except in very small sizes.

Using a good loupe (hand held magnifier) of 10 power is likely the best home test. Of course, try the teeth first! Then look at the drill holes and the surface compared to a good cultured pearl. There is not a one-in-all test I can recommend. Some of this will simply require some ‘pearls’ of real and fakes for comparison. When you look through a 10x maginfier at the surface of most fakes, the surface might look gritty, uneven, “orange peel” as in paints or even flaked off in small places.
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