Luster is the measure of quality
Luster is the measure of quality and quantity of light reflected from the surface of a pearl. Akoya pearls are known for their sharp luster and reflection much like the surface of a mirror. The sharper and more bright the reflection, the more valuable the pearl. Luster is the most important value factor to consider when purchasing a strand of akoya pearls.
Nacre Thickness
The nacre thickness of an akoya pearl is extremely important. Today’s pearl market is overrun with what is known in the trade as “short culture” akoya pearls. These pearls have been harvested too early and do not have an adequate coating of nacre over their mother-of-pearl bead. These pearls are commonly found on eBay and in fashion jewelry stores for very low prices. But the caveat is that these pearls will not last, nor will they exhibit a sharp metallic shine. Luster and durability are directly correlated to the pearl’s nacre thickness.
Cultured pearls are the only organically produced gems in the world. They do not need to be cut or polished to show off their beauty, so each will be as unique as a snowflake, exhibiting different types of growth characteristics. These growth characteristics, no matter how small or how large, are known as inclusions or blemishes. Because all cultured pearls exhibit some form of growth characteristic the US Federal Trade Commission has disallowed the usage of the term “flawless” when describing cultured pearls.
Despite the fact that growth characteristics are universally evident in cultured pearls, the degree of these characteristics is evaluated in the surface quality of an akoya pearl. When all other grading factors are consistent, the fewer blemishes or inclusions visible to the naked eye, the more valuable the pearl.
A – AAA Grading System
Although a universally accepted grading system for cultured akoya pearls does not currently exist, there does exist within the industry best practice standards which utilize a grading system of A – AAA and hanadama.
A strand of hanadama grade pearls is one that has been certified by the Pearl Science Laboratory of Japan as exhibiting the highest quality traits in terms of shape, luster, surface, and nacre thickness.
In order for an akoya strand to be graded AAA all value factors must fall within the top five percent of the quality criteria. AAA grade strands are considered the best, non-hanadama certified strands in the world.
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